Hanoi, Vietnam Part 3

We figured the best way to cover as many attractions as possible with 2 kids in tow is to hire a private tour. We arranged one with the hotel we are staying at (just to make sure that everything is in order and accounted for) and paid US$200 for the whole family. It includes all entrance fees, a private driver, an English tour guide and lunch.

We were picked up at 830am and brought to our first location - Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum where the embalmed body of the country's respected leader, Ho Chi Minh is kept. When we got there, there was already a long queue outside the Mausoleum, largely made up of school children. According to the guide, this is the first place where all tourists should come because it holds the reason behind the making of Hanoi. However, we were also aware that one must keep very quiet once inside the building. No photographs, no noise. Visitors must also be properly attired - no shorts, slippers, singlets etc. We were wearing bermudas and sandals and with two young children, it became very clear that it would be less stressful to just admire the building from outside.

Visitors lining up to enter the mausoleum.

The tour guide gave us a good history of Vietnam and it's political growth. We asked a lot of questions and we were very pleasantly surprised by our guide's honest answers. We were given insights into the country's social, economic and political scenes and more importantly understood the country at a whole new level, away from what we read and know from newspapers. Strangely, with this understanding, I became more at ease with Vietnam and am more able to embrace it like never before.

We walked through the humble residential areas of Ho Chi Minh, and discovered his love for people, who referred to him by the affectionate title of 'Uncle Ho'. He rejected big and fancy houses left behind by the French, and opted for a small humble wooden house. A fish tank was kept in his house so that he could entertain children when the locals visit. We walked through the neatly kept gardens -  a space frequented by the locals till today.

Visitors lining up to visit the humble residence of Ho Chi Minh from 1958 to 1969. It is dubbed "The House on Stilts".

Inside the humble abode.

The French Governer's electrician's house, in which Ho Chi Minh stayed when he took over as Presdient. He found the French Governor's mansion too extravagant and opted to stay here while his "House on Stilts" was being built.

A refurbished garage showcasing the cars used for official duties.

Next, we went to the Vietnam Military History Museum. A short drive from the Mausoleum, we were greeted by a restored Soviet MIG21 fighter jet and a T54 main battle tank. The entrance ticketing booth provides storage lockers for bags and other belongings, and we strolled to snap our first souvenirs with the military memorabilia.

The entrance room gives an overview of Vietnam's miliary history from the founding of the country, through the tenth century, all the way to the French invasion of 1858. When we think of the Vietnamese miliary might, we often envision the jungle warfare of the Vietnam War against the Americans. It was interesting to find out from the exhibits that the country's involvement in armed conflict went much further back in time to the era of spears, swords, and cannon balls.

Further on, the exhibition takes us through the French Imperialism, followed by the Vietnam War era (1949-1975). There was an impressive display of military hardware, most of the items accompanied by interesting write ups, stories, and descriptions. There were re-creations of the famous 'boobie traps' used during the campaign, and displays of other infantry weapons, uniforms, helmets, and equipment of captured French and American soldiers and airmen.

Exhibits depicting improvised explosives and 'booby traps'.

Photographs and displays honoring the heroism of the soldiers who launched suicide anti-tank attacks using 'Lunge Anti-Tank mines'.

In the S4 House, there was a large sand model linked to a video screening, with coordinated lighting depicting the various battles of the Ho Chi Minh campaign as they appeared in the film. We did not have much time to enjoy the indoor exhibits for too long as the Museum's indoor sections were closing for lunch.

Visitors enjoying the film screening and sand model depicting the Ho Chi Minh campaign at the S4 House.

However, there was much more awaiting us in the outdoor section. The courtyards were a massive display of military vehicles and aircraft used by the Vietnam's People's Army, as well as those captured from their adversaries. There were amoured vehicles, helicopters, jets, missiles, artillery pieces, mines and much more. Among them, the wreckage of an American B52 bomber shot down over Hanoi in 1972, and a downed Boeing CH-47 Chinook helicopter which we had the opportunity to climb into.

Surface to air anti-aircraft missile used to defend Hanoi against the B-52 bombing raids.

A sculpture made from the wreckages of downed aircraft.

CH-47 Chinook Helicopter

Sitting in the pilot's seat.

A-37 Dragonfly Light Attack Aircraft.

From the narrations, displays, and coversations with the tour guide, I was impressed by the resilience of the Vietnamese throughout their war history. It was evident that the strength of the Vietnamese defence mechanism lay not in equipment or technology, but in the the unity of its people.

It was lunch time, and we requested for the tour guide to take us to a place with a wide variety of local food... and what a variety there was at Quan An Ngon!

The eatery is fashioned like a Singaporean food court or Marche restaurant, with numerous stand alone stalls selling all sorts of Vietnamese fare. You can visit the booths to buy dishes or make your selection from a menu.

The guide told us it's 'all you can eat' affair with the bill included in the cost of the tour, and we delightfuly obliged by choosing a variety of noodle soups, fresh spring rolls, and barbequed meats. Everything seemed to be served with sides of fresh leafy greens and sweet sauces. For the spring rolls, we selected mainly the healthier 'fresh' versions. While I cannot recall the exact names of the dishes, the following are mouth-watering photographs of some of the dishes we chose (apologies for making this post look like a food-blog, but if you're a foodie, proceed with caution!):

Grilled chicken and pork on skewers with barbecue sauce

Fried prawn cakes. These are small wafers with a whole shrimp (shell included) fried into a crispy crunchy cake. Goes well with the sweet sauce provided!

Pork spring rolls

Prawn spring rolls

Vietnamese pancake (Banh Xeo). These resemble a thin, fragile crispy crepe fried with shrimp and vegetables that you break into pieces and wrap in thin rice paper skins with mint leaves and dip into your sweet sauce. 

Rice noodle spring rolls with peanut sauce

Pork spring rolls in the process of being prepared for the palate!

Eel noodle soup.... eeeeeeeeewwwwwwllll...

While leaving the complex after a sumptuous meal feeling all satisfied, we saw a peddler selling fresh Jack Fruit and the thought of a bag of sweet munchies to accompany us during our ride was too much to resist.

Next we proceeded to Vietnam Museum of Ethnology where the essence of the different ethnic groups in Vietnam is housed. The main building showcases the cultural and social make up of each ethnic group. Videos showing how they perform daily tasks, including spiritual rituals, are also shown. The only obstacle, which is a big one, is that the videos are without English subtitles. We kept having to bombard our guide with questions. The other displays are accompanied by English, though not in much detail. Nonetheless, the museum had enough artifacts and pictures to occupy my elder daughter and I while the second one took her much needed afternoon nap on her daddy's tired shoulders. Just when we thought the one and a half hour walk around the museum was it, we were told that there was more.

Behind the main building is a real-life display of the different ethnic groups' houses. According to our guide, a lot of effort was spent to bring the ethnic houses and 'tombs' (where they house the deceased) from their original sites to the museum. Visitors are also allowed to enter these houses. One needs to be respectful when entering these houses and be careful not to make too much noise and ruckus. Shoes cloths (just wear it over your shoes) are also provided to prevent visitors from dirtying the houses. We entered one of the houses and were initially unsure as to whether the bamboo underneath our feet would support our weight. The minder in the house (I was told they have a minder/volunteer in each house) assured us that the house was very strong and urged us to continue. We did and after a while, both my older daughter and I got a hang of it even though the creaking sound of the bamboo did a great job instilling uncertainties every now and then. The minder explained that the loud sound often made going to the toilet a burden for those sound asleep in the house. I could so imagine.

What followed next on our tour itinerary was an hour ricksaw ride around the Old Quarters. It seemed a bit surreal sitting in a ricksaw admist the rush in the old quarters. The last time I sat in a ricksaw was when I was a little girl and my grandmother would bring me along for her marketing chores. The ricksaw uncle would always pick us up at her house and wait for my grandmother to finish her errands at the market before sending us back again, through the small quiet alleys. All these for SGD$1-2. However, Singapore was developing rapidly and soon, ricksaw uncle stopped working.

Now that I got to sit in a ricksaw again, I felt as if I was a young girl again. Only this time, I had a young girl with me. Tourists were fascinated with the ricksaws and started taking photos. Being hospitable, we posed along. The kids did a great job publicizing for the ricksaw drivers that more tourists came to snap the 'authentic' scene. As we moved along, the ricksaw drivers, in their limited English, tried to find out where we were from and did a very basic introduction of the areas or buildings we went pass. Simply put, they gave us the names of places and buildings but it was good enough as it helped in our orientation. We were dropped at our hotel after an hour and it left us a better impression of the Old Quarters and a determination to explore more of it the next day.

Hanoi, Vietnam Part 2

When we first started our exploration of the Old Quarters, we were very lost. First, where should we go? Each alley has a 'theme' as in they sell different things. You have the alley of fried products, alley of children's clothes, fruits, food, ladies' clothes, men's clothes...so many different alleys! The alleys are named accordingly to the products they sell but everything is in Vietnamese. We decided to just walk and explore. Afterall, that is the whole thrill about travelling - travelling into the unknown.

Second, the traffic. I have only one word for the traffic - Chaos. There are just so, so many motorcycles, risksaws, cars, bicycles, vans...all sharing the stretches of narrow alleys. There is hardly any left and right of the road. Everyone just ...drives and interlocks one another. Should any vehicle need to do a right or left turn, they just do it. No waiting or signalling! They simply horned at one another. So can you imagine the volume the many horns created? Quite a symphony.  We did not see any traffic lights and when we finally did find a few, they were not even working. We took a while to absorb the madness. We saw how the locals cross the road - they, like the vehicles, just cross the road as if they are taking a stroll. To survive, we needed to do as the locals do. Daddy had no problem with the traffic while I was hesitant at first. However, after a few crossings, it really wasn't that big a deal. Somehow the traffic would make space for pedestrians. Traffic harmony...or pure survival instinct.

Here, pedestrians pavements are largely for the stores' goods. The stores would display their goods all the way to the roads as well. We did witness a few times, everyone scrambling to clear their goods into their stores when the police came by. Even the street side hawkers disappeared in a flash. The irony is that after the police left, goods started to inch out of the stores and soon, everything was bad to normal. It was very interesting for us, first timers, to take in such a sight. Rather an amusing irony, I must admit, which adds to the colors of Hanoi. And because there was no space for pedestrians on the pavement, we shared the road with the many vehicles. With 2 kids in hand, we sure take up quite a fair bit of the width. Still, it was alright as we began to relax amidst the chaos. The kids were also able to avoid puddles of water and potholes very skillfully. It was impossible to talk much when we were on the road because it was just so noisy (remember the horns?) We were able to use our hands to direct the kids' hands, by mere means of push and pull. I must admit that I am still very impressed with our 'communication'.

We spent the 5 days in Hanoi, navigating through the alleys but we couldn't finish all that we want to see. Old Quarters is just so huge and because it is so interesting, we would spend a day exploring just a few alleys. Yummy fruits, which we couldn't get enough of, were our favourite. Soursops, custard apples, rambutans and even durians. I am not a fan of durians but everyone in my family loves it. I did try one after Daddy bought one whole durian and now, I am a fan. Vietnamese durians for now. The taste was so intense and so sweet that we returned the next day to the same stall and bought 2 whole durians. We had a fruits galore in Hanoi. On top of that, we tried a lot of the street food. I do not know what they are called but we did try their spring rolls and sprimp cakes, amongst other stuff. The food is often left in the open for a while before some customers come by and buy them. I suppose because the weather was cool when we went, there were no flies. However, we were careful not to let the kids eat too much of the street food. Their main meals were taken at the hotel, which is still very cheap, while we would buy dishes from the alleys and let them try some. Good thing is the kids took to the street food very well. Everyone remained healthy throughout the trip which was a blessing.

We explored the market and it was quite a sight to see all sorts of fruits, vegetables, fish and meat on display on the floor. We had the opportunity to see a lady prepare skinned frogs. Now, how many of you have seen it live? The kids were so fascinated that they stood in front of the lady for a long time. I, too, was deeply captivated.

Shopping was also very enjoyable. We were told by the hotel staff to bargain if buying from stores, at least 30-40% lower than asking price. We learnt 'How Much?' in Vietnamese from the staff and it helped. However, the store owners would start rattering in Vietnamese and we were bounced back to confusion again. We ended up bargaining using hand gestures and the store owners would fight the price battle with their calculators. If it doesn't work, just walk away. Of the few times I walked away, only one did not call me back. (Grin, grin) . However, we were careful not to ruffle their feather with a too ridiculous price. These people still need to earn a living and we felt that we should respect that. Still, I got my bargains and loved every moment of it.
 

Conquering the streets of Hanoi Old Quarters

We also explored the Hoan Kiem Lake but only went up to the red bridge. We did find the 'tuk-tuk' ( Thailand's open air vehicles "with no doors and windows" - from the kids' perspective) that the kids were so excited about since day one. We finally found out what it was when we went to Hoan Kiem Lake. It is an electric tourist car which brings you around the Old Quarters for 150,000 VND for 30 minutes or 250,000VND for an hour. We opted for the half an hour ride and it was very nice. Except for my younger daughter, all of us prefer the electric tourist bus to the ricksaw, which we sat on during the day of our private tour. It moves a lot faster so we could cover more and see more.

 

The Old Quarters is really an amazing maze of discoveries. We can't wait to return and expand our territory.

 

Hanoi, Vietnam Part 1

We just came back from a 5 days trip to Hanoi. It was our first time there and needless to say, we asked friends who had been there before for their advise. Not many of my friends like it though. They couldn't pin point the reason for it...just no feel for it. This made us even more confused. This would be the first time we 'rough it out' with the kids (no typical Kids Resorts or English speaking countries) so we were both excited and nervous at the same time. Afterall, we wanted this trip to be educational. We wanted the children to look beyond the comfort and conveniences they have back at home. We wanted them to be thankful for their blessings and bless others. The world is not all about what they want. We live in a world with many differences, whether it be social, educational, or even political. The bottom line is we want them to accept and respect the differences and bless in whatever way they can.

We managed to get a super sale deal on Silkair so it was great. Not much difference from budget airline tickets so we chose Silkair, obviously. We booked Hanoi Moment hotel based on the reviews on Tripadvisor and we were all set to go. Our flight is 3 plus in the afternoon and because it was Silkair, we were able to check in at 1030 - 11am. A good 5 hours before the take off. We sure took it slow -  a slow walk around the terminal, a slow lunch and a lot of time for drawing (at the Art Corner) and play (at the Family Zone) By the time we were on the plane, girls were so tired they dozed off immediately. It was all part of the plan (evil grin).
 

Lotsa fun at the Family Zone

 



All ready to take off

Airport transfer was arranged prior to departure so we were able to weave through the airport. For those travelling to Vietnam, do note that there have been a lot of taxi scams going on. We were informed by the hotel and we, too, read about it on forums. Taxis would start off with a very attractive price before raising it to a ridiculous amount upon arriving at the destinations. 'Drivers' would pose as taxi-drivers and before you know it, the dollars would fly out of your pockets.  Apparently, the situation is also beyond the control of the local police. Or so we heard. I rather be safe than sorry.

The hotel we booked was simply fantastic. It is located right in the middle of the Old Quarters (perfect for bargain buys and interesting sights and sounds) and it is very clean and modern. The staff is of exceptional quality and we were all very pleasantly surprised to find such value in a small hotel. A laptop, with free wifi, was also provided, which was great as we like to travel light. What helped ace the hotel stay is the impeccable service. When we arrived, the doorman and the manager rushed across the road to help us with our luggages, all with big smiles. Check in was swift and we were brought up to our family suite by the Customer Service Manager, Tom, who made sure we were well settled in and that we had everything we needed. Should we need anything, all we had to do is to call the reception and it would be attended to immediately. Maybe it is because it is a small hotel and messages get around really quickly. Whatever it is, we are impressed. Daily room cleaning was done by 3 staff and they were very thorough in their work. I am very picky with the cleanliness and presentation of toilets and Hanoi Moment and its staff did not disappoint. It was so clean and beautifully decorated with flowers on the shower floor that I took longer than usual in the showers. There was also no mold in between the tiles. Yes, I am that picky especially since that was my precious 'me' time.

Breakfast is buffet styled, even though you can only choose from the breakfast menu and the kitchen staff will cook it for you upon ordering. Nonetheless, we are not complaining. Food was served very quickly and everything on the menu was so delicious. My 2 daughters ended up ordering their favourites every morning - chocolate pancake, honey pancake, noodle soup and fresh milk. The fresh milk came in really handy because my younger daughter is a big lover of fresh milk. More importantly, it can be served warm. All the more better for my girl. My favourite would have to be the beef noodle soup. I simply couldn't have enough of it. What topped up the wonderful food was their service. Everyone was so happy, friendly and warm in the morning that it helped to brighten up my day too. Everyone was greeted by name and even the Sales Manager and Customer Service Managers would help in the serving of tables. One can really see the team work in the Hanoi Moment family. The staff would go around the tables and initiate friendly chats with the guests. The breakfast room is very small, only 5 tables, with each table accommodating 4 guests. But because the staff was so friendly and warm, all the guests started making friendly conversations with one another too. When we were taking photos, someone from another table even offered to help us take a family shot. Breakfast became very enjoyable throughout the days we were there. The breakfast staff would also try their best to accede to our requests should we want something outside the breakfast menu. My husband ordered soup with just beef and chicken, without the noodles, and they were more than happy to see to that. They found out that my husband loves their oranges and they offered to send more to our room. You should see the delighted faces when we returned to our room to find that promise fulfilled.

The staff always greeted us warmly whenever we walked past the lobby. The doorman would also give my daughters high-fives whenever they walked through the door. My girls loved it! He is also always cleaning the door and the lobby. No wonder, the lobby is always so clean and neat. The Sales Manager, Ms Ching Nguyen and her team of friendly receptionists, are always at the lobby, ready to help us with any requests. They loved the kids and hence my daughters always looked forward to playing with them. It sure helped to set the mood especially after a long walk out in the crazy traffic. We felt so safe once we entered the hotel. So much so that we had no qualms sending our elder daughter down to the lobby to get some materials from the receptionists. We wouldn't do that in other hotels.  

We ordered room service a lot because the girls needed to take their afternoon naps and they sleep early at night. Ordering is simple, just tell them the item number and quantity. They always said that food would be served in 30 minutes and they were always on time, which is very important when we have 2 hungry children. We would bathe the kids while waiting for the food and by the time they are done, food would have arrived. Perfect timing. In short, we love our choice of accommodation.